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Guédés: When Haïti celebrates its ancestors with color and fervor

Every November 1st and 2nd, Haïti comes alive with the colors black and purple to celebrate the Guédés, spirits venerated in the voodoo religion, symbols of a powerful bond between the living and the dead. Fascinating, indomitable and provocative, the Guédés form a true family in the pantheon of Haitian voodoo, where they are respected for their role as spiritual guides of the deceased to the afterlife. Led by iconic figures such as the legendary Baron Samedi and his companion Grann Brigitte, the Guédés embody the paradoxes of life and death. Each Baron has a unique personality: Baron Cimetière, Baron Kriminel, and Baron La Croix are the guardians of the souls that wander on the borders of the world of the dead. Together, they form a powerful and somewhat frightening presence, but one that is deeply rooted in Haitian culture. The Guédés are not like other voodoo spirits; they demonstrate their fearlessness in a spectacular way. Accustomed to death, they are fearless and are provocative: they eat glass, raw peppers, and coat their sensitive parts with rum and pepper. These gestures mark their indifference to danger and remind us that they have already known earthly life. They are thus psychopomps – these beings who lead the souls of the dead – and act as bridges between the world of the living and that of the dead. Some Guédés, like Guédé Nibo, wear black, purple, and white clothing, each with unique characteristics. They are many and varied: Guédé Fouillé, Guédé Loraj, Papa Guédé, and many others. These are the spirits who, each year, remind Haitians of the importance of remembering and honoring the deceased. The cult of the Guédés is not only religious; it is also cultural and historical. According to tradition, their spiritual territory, or “Fètomè” – nicknamed the “Country without Hats” – is a place where the souls of ancestors reside. According to stories, the origins of this cult go back to the Abomey plateau, the ancient capital of the kingdom of Dahomey, in Africa, where death and life coexist in a form of symbiosis. This celebration in Haïti even finds echoes in ancient history. The Romans also honored their dead with the “Fête des Lémuria”, which took place in February, to ward off spirits and restore peace between the world of the living and that of the deceased. For Haitians, honoring the Guédés is about accepting death as a part of life and celebrating the invisible bonds that unite us with those who have left us. It is also a way of resisting, because life, despite its challenges, must be celebrated in all its complexity and depth.